Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Pungency Rules: Thoughts about Garlic

One could probably write a whole book about garlic -- perhaps someone has. However, today I would just like to toss out a few thoughts about preparing and using garlic. I'll also share with you an easy recipe for mussels that is a favorite of my friends.

I'm not going to wax eloquent about the types of garlic -- there are many and their pungency varies considerably. These are a matter of taste, and more than anything, availability. I try to find a store that sells the freshest bulbs and I tend to like a strong garlic (Elephant garlic and the like seem to me to be rather weak in flavor). Unfortunately garlic does tend to dry out quickly and lose some of its potency, so adjustments have to be made to recipes if you have some bulbs that have been around for awhile.

One can grow garlic fairly easily in the right soil and environs, and I have a friend who has (does) and he typically has a number of varities that are fun to compare and experiment with. So if you have the where-with-all to find varieties of garlic or grow them, you can enjoy playing arpound with a wide variety of recipes and see how different types impart subtle (or not so subtle) changes in taste.

As the title of my blog suggests I am not a purist about very many things when it comes to cooking, but I do tend to have a few considerations in regards to the preparation of garlic that seem to, at least in my humble opinion, affect the flavor in any given dish.

To really enjoy the full flavor and pungency of garlic without additional bitterness added to the mix (pressing seems to do this in my opinion), I find that finely chopping garlic with a sharp knife is by far the preferred method of preparation. And in an even more purist perspective, I don't feel a food processor accomplishes this task particularly well. So for dishes where you really want the garlic to shine through (see 'Mussels ala Koob, below') grin and bear up to taking the time to chop it finely yourself (or if you are lucky and have friends over willing to help in food preparation, set them to the task -- though if you are like me, you will have to finish it off to your own satisfaction).

However there are certainly many instances where garlic can and should be prepared and used as whole cloves, knife-smushed cloves, lightly chopped, and even pressed through a garlic press. As this blog develops I will likely discuss all of these forms of preparation in relationship to a wide variety of recipes. [I tend to use a lot of garlic and, well, it's good for you, too.]

Another important consideration for the use of garlic (onions, chives, etc.) is that size of cloves/bulbs, freshness, method of preparation, at what point you use it in the recipe, how you cook it, etc., all affect the final outcome. So! Use your best judgement and experiment with amounts, etc. Recipes, like the one below, should almost always be treated as guidelines, not absolutes -- three cloves of garlic may be great for one person's taste or a given size/type of garlic, but completely wrong for you.

Mussels ala Koob

What you'll need:

Bag of fresh mussels (2-3 lbs)
1 Bulb (or more) fresh garlic
butter and/or olive oil (other oils may be used based on your diet, preferences, etc. For this recipe my favorite approach is just to use olive oil, but some people really like the flavor of butter with mussels.)
Fresh tomatoes (one or two medium -- for this recipe Romas work nicely)

Optional

Red Bell pepper or a more spicy variety if you prefer
Green Onions

Preparation:

Wash mussels; discard any broken ones. Set large pot on stove with enough water to cover mussels when they are tossed in and bring to a boil (or you could use a steamer and steam the mussels open). When water is boiling toss in the mussels only long enough for them to fully open. Remove immediately and drain and let cool (can be done half hour or so ahead). When they are cool enough remove the mussel meats from the shells and place in bowl. Press garlic cloves and remove outer skin and hard bottom. Chop the entire bulb very finely. Chop tomatoes into about pea size pieces.

Heat butter/olive oil (hint: unsalted butter is probably best for this, extra virgin olive oil -- keep in mind that mussels could have a bit of a salty flavor). You could use all butter or all olive oil -- what do your tastebuds tell you? Toss in garlic and saute for about two minutes over medium heat. Add tomatoes and saute another couple of minutes. [If you decide to add any pepper, add to mix after garlice has been in for one minute. Green onions can be added at same time as tomato.] You can vary this recipe in many ways. The key is the chopped garlic.

When tomato has cooked slightly, add the mussel meats to the pan and toss until covered with the sauce and garlic. Serve immediately (with toast crisps is great!).

This is one of those instances where a great deal of garlic, patiently chopped and lightly cooked, makes all the difference in the world in flavor.

Enjoy.

Joe Koob

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